Rising early for our flight to Mumbai, we reached the airport at 8am and checked into our flight - although only after being stopped on our way into the airport and having our ticket checked and then again five seconds later just before the check in desk. We waited in the lobby for our flight to be called and after standing in a queue for half an hour we finally boarded the plane only for it to be an hour late taking off. At the other side we were greeted by our pick-up which was the best yet in a huge car and headed to the resort. Interestingly it seemed to be in a largely Catholic area of Mumbai with statues of the Madonna and Child and stone crosses everywhere. However, it took a good hour from the airport and was quite remote - reeking of fish and without any Internet access - horror of horrors! Haha! We'd chosen it because it was cheaper than the other hotels in more central Mumbai and had hoped we could have a few relaxing days by the pool. Unfortunately it seemed to cater largely for locals so we were unsure how well received our plans to sunbathe would be. Furthermore without Internet or international phone access our plans to organise South Africa were scuppered, so we organised a car to take us round Mumbai the next day and spent what was left of the day relaxing in our room.
Another earlyish start saw us leave the resort at about half ten (though we had booked the driver for nine). We had asked for an English-speaking driver so we could discuss where we would go etc. The driver's English was limited but he seemed like he had a pre-planned route. We headed straight for the Gateway of India which was coming on for two hours away - some indication of how far we were away from the centre! The arch was magnificent, however, and the architecture around Mumbai very colonial looking - full of gothic spires and the like, even the High Court a throw-back to the rule of the British Raj. After the Gateway we went to the Mumbai Museum which seemed quite small but had a few interesting exhibits on the different castes and races living in the Mumbai area and on various Hindu deities. As well as being ornately decorated on the inside. We then stopped for lunch - at McDonald's, very cultural of us I know, as the other guys had been having a rough time with the Indian cuisine of late and I was happy enough to tag along (under sufferance of course!). Afterwards we were taken to Juju Beach, but it being filthy and not having brought our swimmers decided not to stay long and looked for an Internet cafe and phone shop to sort out our hop-on hop-off tour of South Africa. Our driver offered to take us to another beach but we declined and after a quick stop off at a supermarket headed back to the resort and settled in for the night.
The second full day in Mumbai saw us spend the whole day in the room sheltering from the fishy smell and in effort to spread those available activities across our time. The third day we went to Water Kingdom which boasts to be Asia's largest water park. In reality it must be Asia's only water theme park as it wasn't huge but was a lot of fun! The weirdest element was that you had to be well covered, Ben and I were ok with just shorts on but the girls were required to don quite a lot more! Alice was unimpressed having to hire some lycra t-shirt and shorts and Charlotte still managed to disgrace herself, her lycra skirt flashing up as she came down a slide too quickly - to the great amusement of Ben and the local Indian men! I ended the day with a huge Thali and pink shoulders but it was a nice antidote to being cooped up in the room, as we were the next day!
The day of our flight we decided to make our way to the airport after check-out, but as our flight wasn't until 2am in the morning they wouldn't let us through to departures until 11pm! It seems like it was a measure to curb the number of well-wishers Indian passengers brought with them, everything being a family-affair in India! We had to sit out 10 hours in the designated waiting room for 60Rs which was only made bearable by the free wifi!
The flight itself was good and I slept really well - completely knocked out even before take-off! The free mini bottle of South African wine was a lovely addition and our hostel owner in Johannesburg even picked us up from the airport! We headed to the hostel and sorted out our pick-up for the next day on the Baz Bus before a quick nap and shower. That afternoon my cousin Craig came to our hostel and picked us up for a braai at his house with copious amounts of beer! It was great to meet my new cousin-in-law Liezl finally and we chatted what felt like was well into the night! In reality by about 9pm we were lagging and Craig very kindly took us back to the hostel. Our first day in South Africa had been amazing - stepping off the plane it was great to breathe fresh air for the first time in weeks and it was great meeting up with family and chiding down on some red-meat washed down with alcohol, quite the contrast with India!
Our next day we woke early to get on the Baz Bus heading for Durban. We passed some absolutely stunning scenery in the Drakensburg Mountians and numerous quaint little farmsteads - sometimes little more than shacks in the scrub. Once we reached Durban another one of my cousins Russell (I took full advantage of my South African connections as you can see!) picked us up from Umhlanga Rocks and we headed for his house in the private game farm he runs, Kube Yini. We arrived late and were greeted by my cousin-in-law-to-be Nats and served a delicious meal of wraps, with a few beers of course and lots of laughs as well as discussion of wedding plans! It had been a long day but it was well worth it as our next two days would prove!
We slept in for the first time in a while and woke up to incredible surroundings right in the middle of the African bush! We chilled until mid-afternoon when Russell took us out for a drive around the reserve where we saw impala, umyala and to top it off just as the sun was setting some giraffes! That evening we enjoyed a braai with Russell and Nats and their friends which was amazing - especially the potato bake!
The next morning we got up and ready for our drive back to Durban, Russell kindly taking us all the way back, but not before the elephant interaction he had organised for us on one of the neighbouring reserves. We were driven over and had the opportunity to get up close and personal with some elephants who though lived wild in the park had been used to human contact since they were young! We fed the elephants and even got to put our arms right on their mouths! The skin was really rough and their hair like telephone wire. The whole experience was incredible being so close to these huge animals who were so friendly! After washing the elephant spit off ourselves we got back into the car and headed for Durban.
That evening we said our goodbyes to Russell after a great couple of days at his place - a wonderful start to our South African trip! We settled into the hostel and then headed out to check out the beach - which was beautiful but windy and searched out a bunnychow! I had looked up this gastronomic treat before flying into South Africa - a curry served in a loaf of bread hollowed out. We had been told we had to try it in 'Natal Durban' (nicknamed New Delhi) while at Craig's as it was the home of South Africa's Indian population. The meal didn't disappoint, all of us choosing a quarter chicken curry, and left very full before checking out the local supermarket for supplies.
The following morning we got on the Baz Bus aiming for Coffee Bay. Driving through more stunning scenery we made it to our connection at Mthatha just after midday. The ride to the hostel took a few hours and as we had already had to wait a little while at Mthatha we made it to Coffee Shack hostel at around 5pm. We checked in and signed up for dinner that night and the 'Hole in the Wall' hike the next day! After a huge meal provided by the hostel we headed to bed absolutely knackered - having not quite caught up with the hours we lost from India!
Up for 10:30am we piled into the mini bus to take us to Hole in the Wall where we would start our hike. After taking in the scenery and the rock erosion which had created a circular break in the cliff, we stated our walk. I think we had underestimated how difficult it would be considering how steep some of the hills were - nit helped by a few mistruthes told by our guides ad to how far we had left to go! In the end the supposedly 3 hour hike took us about 5, thoroughly embracing 'African Time' apparently! Once again the scenery was magnificent rolling hills and steep cliffs bordering the coast. We even saw some dolphins in the distance and all-in-all it was quite a sense of achievement making it all the way back!
That evening we cooked for ourselves, with the meagre supplies we managed to father from the local shop, before heading to bed! The next morning we headed back to Mthatha to rejoin the Baz Bus and headed for Port Elizabeth, our last compulsory stop before Cape Town. That having got in late we made a quick dinner and I booked my train ticket home (can't believe how close it is to the end now!) before heading for bed ready for our connection to Knysna the next morning!
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